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2019年09月20日 22:12:44
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London Fashion Week伦敦时装周Rags to riches朱门华裳British fashion is becoming more hard headed英国时尚产业跨入高端大气上档次时代The Delevingne effect卡拉·迪瓦伊的美女效应WITH its whirl of frocks, models and million-dollar deals London Fashion Week has always been rather a closeted affair, accessible to few. Amateur fashionistas have had to wait for glossy magazines and blogs to tell them what to wear next. But at the second of Londons biannual fairs, which ran from September 13th to 17th, that was starting to change. Around half the shows were live-streamed to the internet and TV channels with bulletins broadcast to commuters waiting at underground Tube stops. A free pop-up cinema screened fashion-themed films.按照以往的惯例,伦敦时装周是裙裾飞扬的大牌成衣、魅惑性感的T台模特和投资上百万美元共同打造出的一场仅为极少数土豪奉上的时尚盛宴,而至于那些不入流的时尚人士则只能从铜版纸装订的时尚杂志和时尚达人的客中得知下一季的流行趋势。但是从9月13日至17日的这场时装周作为伦敦今年举行的两场中的第二场,则开始有了些许的变化。约有半数的秀场通过网络和电台进行直播,那些想和土豪做朋友的小伙伴们甚至可以在地铁站候车点的公告牌前、影院观影前荧幕弹出的时尚主题短片中观看走秀。This push to bring Fashion Week to a wider audience is likely to pay off. Though unaffordable to most shoppers, high fashion is the beating heart of high-street retail. More wearable versions of the transparent outfits that entertained audiences in London this month will soon appear in shops up and down the country. In the week following last Septembers shows, online fashion sales were up 45%, according to Ve Interactive, an e-commerce firm. Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council (BFC), which organises Fashion Week, expects that the digital buzz surrounding the event will push buyers orders well beyond £100m (0m).该做法的确为时装周吸引了大批消费受众群体,尽管对多数消费者来说要买的起这些时装至少要卖个肾,但这些高端时尚却是那些他们可以消费得起的高街品牌(如ZARA、BERSHKA或MANGO)的设计源动力。至于在本月秀场上的一系列令台下观众喜大普奔的透视时装将陆续出现在英国小伙伴们生活当中。据电子商务公司龙头企业——Ve Interactive的数据显示,九月时装周后一周的时间内,在线时装交易额同比上涨了45%。负责时装周运行的英国时装理事会(British Fashion Council)首席执行官卡洛琳·拉什(Caroline Rush)推测数字化的环境将推动超过一亿英镑(折合一亿六千万美元)的订单交易生成。The changes seen at the shows are part of a wider effort to bring a businesslike approach to British fashion. London has long been feted as a breeding ground for brilliant designers. Many of them, including John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, trained at Central St Martins, a college known for turning out skilful originals. But a tendency to focus on art over business has meant that too many designers have failed to make the most of their critical acclaim. London Fashion Week has long been seen as the tiddler of the “big four” global shows, overshadowed by the spectacles in Milan, New York and Paris.时装秀观看模式的改变是英国时尚产业商业化的一场巨大变革。伦敦向来被誉为是盛产高富帅设计师之地,知名设计师包括John Galliano和Alexander McQueen等,他们均毕业于培养高技术水平设计师的英国圣马丁艺术学院(Central St Martins),但这种艺术形式商业化使得多数设计师都无法正确处理好外界的褒奖,无法从中真正获益。事实上,伦敦时装周一直以来都处于全球四大时装周之末流,与米兰、纽约、巴黎三大巨头的时装盛宴相比,实在太过逊色。The BFC wants to change that. Since , when it appointed Ms Rush (its first full-time chief executive) the council has pushed to make young designers more market savvy and encourage greater investment in fashion. In January it appointed a new chairman, Natalie Massenet, the American creator of Net-a-Porter, an online fashion shop that last year saw sales of 368m, as its chairman. Ms Massenet has said she wants to stop ;business; being seen as a dirty word in fashion.英国时装理事会(BFC)为了改变这一处境,自年起任命拉什女士为首位全职首席执行官后,便极力让设计师新秀们敏锐捕捉市场需求并且鼓励他们多多投资时尚事业。而理事会今年一月上任的新任主席—娜塔莉·马斯奈(Natalie Massenet)是全球化奢侈品网上专卖店Net-a-Porter的创办者,该网站去年创下了368,000,000英镑的交易额。马斯奈女士表示受任为该理事会的主席是想改变“商业运作”在时尚圈的恶名。That may not be as far-fetched as it sounds. Britains fashion business adds about £21 billion to GDP. Oxford Economics, a consultancy, reckons that a good chunk of this is retail. But from designing clothes to selling them, fashion employs more people than any other creative industry in Britain. The designer end of clothes making has done especially well, growing 20% a year over the past decade. An increasing number of British designers have set their sights on overseas markets, especially in Asia. Paul Smith, for example, plans to open 20 new stores in China in the next five years. Attracting foreign talent, meanwhile, may soon be made easier with the introduction of a “London visa” for talented designers.事实也没有像马斯奈女士所说的那样严重,实际上,英国时尚产业为其国民生产总值增收210亿英镑。作为提供经济顾问机构的牛津经济研究院(Oxford Economics)日前表示该项收入很大程度来源于蓬勃发展的装零售业。从装的设计到销售,整个过程相比于其他创造型产业为英国民众提供了更多就业岗位,最为出众的是装设计师行业,其以每十年20%的增幅不断上涨,越来越多的设计师小伙伴们将目光对准了海外市场,尤其是盛产“大妈”的亚洲。据知名时尚品牌Paul Smith计划,中国在未来五年将陆续迎接其20家专门店的开幕。与此同时,英国或为引进海外人才而对杰出设计师放宽申请“伦敦签”的政策。(伦敦签——有才的你,值得拥有~)The renaissance of British fashion has been given a boost by some new ambassadors. The “Middleton effect”—a bump in sales attributed to the Duchess of Cambridges fashion choices—has had a beneficial effect on British brands in America. A new crop of British models, among them Cara Delevingne, bestrides the international catwalk. Now Boris Johnson, the floppy-haired mayor of London, has joined the campaign. At a fashion shoot to promote British menswear this summer he could not remember who designed the suit he was wearing but his words were on message. “London is to the suit”, he said, “as Parma is to the Parmesan cheese”.英国时尚再卷狂潮,新来的几位大使功不可没。—剑桥公爵夫人(Duchess of Cambridge)的时尚穿衣品味带动了美国发展的英国本土品牌,这就是所谓的“米德尔顿效应”(亦可称“公爵夫人效应”);英国模特后起之秀中的佼佼者,卡拉·迪瓦伊(Cara Delevingne)也在世界T台上掀起浪潮;而现如今伦敦市长鲍里斯·约翰逊(Boris Johnson)顶着他那头标志性的蓬乱金发也加入到该行列中。在今年夏季召开的一场提升英国男士装知名度的时装发布会上,这位不知道自己定制西装的设计者姓甚名谁的市长大人却讲出了“伦敦之于西装,恰如帕尔马至于帕马森干酪”。译者:尤熠 校对:徐珍 译文属译生译世 /201512/414510青岛自体隆胸哪家最好青岛医学院附属医院位址青岛祛眼袋大概需要多少钱

莱西市妇幼保健医院什么时候建立青岛整形医院去痣怎么收费Carbon dioxide is a potent greenhouse gas.二氧化碳是一种强力的温室气体。Levels of carbon dioxide, or CO2, in the atmosphere are increasing at an unprecedented rate.大气中的二氧化碳的浓度正在以前所未有的速度增长。But what impact do higher CO2 levels have on plants?但是空发中高浓度的二氧化碳对植物有什么样的影响呢?Plants use CO2 from the air along with sunlight and water to produce carbohydrates they use for energy.植物运用空气中的二氧化碳,与阳光、水一起产生能量所需的碳水化合物。This process is called photosynthesis.这个过程叫做光合作用。Higher atmospheric CO2 increases the rate of photosynthesis, and thus the amount of carbohydrates in plant leaves.二氧化碳浓度较高的大气增加了光合作用的速率,因此植物中碳水化合物的数量就会过剩。Sounds beneficial, right?听起来很有利,对吧?However, scientists have found that asCO2 levels go up, plant defenses might go down.然而科学家们发现随着二氧化碳浓度的升高,植物的防御将会降低。Researchers at the University of Illinois used a special open-air research facility that allowed them togrow soybean plants in different concentrations of CO2—without changing other factors such as sunlight, insects or rainfall.伊利诺伊大学的研究人员采用了特殊的露天研究设施,这些设施可以使他们在不同浓度的二氧化碳中种植大豆植物-不用改变其他的因素,如阳光,昆虫,或者雨水。They discovered that soybeans grown in fields with higher CO2 levels had much more insect damage and attracted more adult insect pests than those in plots with less CO2 in the air.他们发现在较高浓度二氧化碳中种植的大豆会遭受更严重的虫害,与在空气中二氧化碳浓度较低的地方相比,它们会吸引更多的成年害虫。The insects might have been attracted by the higher carbohydrate levels in the leaves of plantsgrown in high CO2.这些昆虫被植物叶子中由高浓度的二氧化碳产生的高含量的碳水化合物所吸引。But a higher carb diet wasnt the only thing that encouraged infestation.但是高碳水化合物的饮食并不是引起虫害的唯一原因。Normally, soybean plants under attack by insects will produce jasmonic acid.一般来说,被昆虫攻击的大豆植物都会产生抑制昆虫消化叶子能力的茉莉酸,This inhibits theinsects ability to digest leaves, which protects the plant from further attack.以保护植物免受进一步的损害。In high CO2atmospheres, the plants were unable to produce this defensive chemical.在高二氧化碳环境中,植物无法产生这种防御性化学物质。So, the dangers of rapidly increasing CO2 in our atmosphere might extend beyond climate change.所以二氧化碳急速增长所带来的危害可能远远不止气候变化。Since soybeans grown at higher CO2 would lose a crucial defense pathway and attractmore hungry beetles, other food crops might also be more vulnerable if CO2 levels continue torise.既然在高二氧化碳环境中种植的大豆会失去防御的关键通道并引来更多饥饿的甲虫,如果二氧化碳浓度继续升高的话,其它粮食作物可能也会变得更加脆弱。201410/336260即墨市地区人民医院耳部整形青岛什么方法可以天然脱毛不复发

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