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It started as a spring drizzle, then runways with clothes for fall became flooded with them. Miniskirts in all styles -- mod, flirty, kicky, sporty and even formal -- signaled that hemlines are emerging shorter than they#39;ve been in years. 刚开始只是春天的毛毛雨,后来在秋季时装秀场上泛滥成灾。各式各样的迷你裙──60年代登风格、挑逗的、活泼的、运动的、甚至正式的──正在发出裙子越来越短的信号。They#39;re coming from designers at fashion#39;s forefront -- Hedi Slimane#39;s sultry Saint Laurent, Euro-posh Giambattista Valli, Dior#39;s Raf Simons, casual-chic Isabel Marant -- suggesting this is the tip of a wave. In his debut at Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquiere bet the bank on slim minis. 这些迷你裙都出自时尚前沿的设计师之手──艾迪·斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)性感迷人的 罗兰(Saint Laurent),欧式时髦风格的詹巴迪斯塔·瓦利(Giambattista Valli),迪奥(Dior)的拉夫·西蒙斯(Raf Simons),休闲时尚的伊莎贝尔·玛兰(Isabel Marant)──说明它正站在时尚潮流的风口浪尖。在为路易威登(Louis Vuitton)所做的首个系列中,尼古拉斯·盖斯基埃(Nicolas Ghesquiere)把注押在了修身迷你裙上。Gucci designer Frida Giannini signaled the seriousness of her intent to go mini by devoting the final look in her Fall 2014 show, a position that is often reserved for important evening gowns or bridal dresses, to an ultra short hemline. 古驰(Gucci)设计师弗里达·贾娜妮(Frida Giannini)将2014秋季时装秀的压轴位置给了一款超短裙,这个位置通常都是留给重要的晚礼或新娘礼的。这表明了她对走迷你路线的认真态度。The look is youthful and modern with a hint of #39;60s retro coed. 这款迷你裙青春洋溢,现代感十足,又带有一丝60年代的复古校园风。#39;My haute couture was all legs, legs, legs,#39; says Mr. Valli of his exclusive made-to-measure collection. He notes that he hoped to underline his label#39;s appeal to the growing number of younger couture clients. He did minis for his y-to-wear collection as well, calling the look #39;young and fresh.#39; 瓦利提到他的独家定制系列时说;“我的高定时装重点在腿。”他指出,他希望向日益增多的年轻高定客户强调品牌的吸引力。他的成衣系列也有迷你裙,他称迷你裙“年轻、清新”。News of the mini#39;s return is likely to be met with cheers in some corners and groans in others. The young and leggy -- and their admirers -- often view the look favorably. Others prefer more coverage. 迷你裙回归的消息可能会引起一些人的欢呼,不过也会遭到一些人的抱怨。长腿的年轻女孩以及她们的爱慕者通常比较青睐迷你裙,而其他人则喜欢不那么暴露。But these days, fashion is all about choice. No hemline is obligatory. Ultra-trendy retailer Opening Ceremony, for example, sells its skirts and dresses in three categories: mini, midi, and maxi. 但是如今时装的关键在于选择。并不一定非得穿迷你裙。比如连锁潮店Opening Ceremony就有三种半身裙和连身裙供选择:迷你、中等长度还有长裙。For the current season, the mini is likely to mainly appeal to fashion#39;s early adopters. The look is new, calling to mind Goldie Hawn in her #39;Laugh-In#39; days, and contrasts starkly with the longer, ladylike trends of recent seasons. 在本季,迷你裙可能主要会吸引时尚界最前卫的人群。迷你裙是新潮流,会让人想起电视喜剧“Laugh-In”中的戈尔迪·霍恩(Goldie Hawn),同时也和近几季的淑女长裙形成鲜明对比。Some mainstream retailers say they plan to watch the mini for a season or two before investing heavily. #39;I wouldn#39;t say it was the trend we called out,#39; says Brooke Jaffe, fashion director of Bloomingdale#39;s. The department store is mostly focused on skirt lengths just below the knee, she says. Bloomingdale#39;s, owned by Macy#39;s, Inc., will stock some minis, such as Ms. Marant#39;s embellished versions, for #39;off-hours#39; wear. 有主流零售商说,他们打算先对迷你裙观察一两季,然后再决定是否大量投资。梅西百货公司(Macy#39;s Inc.)旗下布鲁明戴尔百货公司(Bloomingdale#39;s)时装总监布鲁克·贾菲(Brooke Jaffe)说:“这并不是我们所追求的潮流。”她说,布鲁明戴尔主要出售长度刚到膝盖以下的裙子。布鲁明戴尔会进一些适合“非工作时间”穿着的迷你裙,比如玛兰设计的比较花哨的款式。#39;There are people in the industry that are ones to watch,#39; says Ms. Jaffe, listing Mr. Simons, Mr. Ghesquiere and Mr. Slimane among others. #39;I take it as an indication of things to come -- but not at this minute.#39; 贾菲说:“业内有很多可作为风向标的设计师,我把他们当作未来潮流趋势的风向标,但并不是当下。”她列举了西蒙斯、盖斯基埃和斯理曼等设计师。Minis are no longer the revolutionary fashion they were when they were introduced 50-some years ago. And no longer relegated only to younger wearers, the new mini trend can be worn by anyone who feels they have the legs for it -- some of whom may have worn them years ago. 迷你裙不再是50年前刚推出时的革命性时装了。最新的迷你裙潮流也不再只局限于年轻人。如今,自认拥有美腿的人都可以穿迷你裙──有些人或许很多年前也穿过。Margo Barbakow was married in a white minidress at the Waldorf Astoria towers in 1970 in New York City. 1970年,玛戈·巴伯考(Margo Barbakow)在纽约华尔道夫大厦酒店(Waldorf Astoria towers)结婚时穿的就是白色迷你裙婚纱。#39;My mother called it my #39;wedding blouse,#39; #39; recalls Ms. Barbakow. #39;I fought like hell to get her to let me buy that dress.#39; 巴伯考回忆道:“我母亲说我穿的是‘婚衫’。我想尽办法才让她给我买了那条裙子。”Now 66 years old and living in Santa Barbara, Calif., Ms. Barbakow says her skirts won#39;t rise higher than just-above-the-knee this time around. Fortunately, she says, she recently lost 18 pounds. #39;I feel better about showing my legs now -- with enough self-tanning cream,#39; she says. 如今巴伯考已经66岁,住在加州 巴巴拉(Santa Barbara)。她说,现在她穿裙子不会超过略高于膝盖的高度。她说,幸运的是最近她减了18磅的体重。她说:“现在我对露腿的感觉好些了──涂上足够的自助美黑霜就可以了。”Like firecrackers and some children#39;s toys, many miniskirts should come with warnings on their hang tags. Office workers: Beware clothing with virtually no room for error. If you have to yank the skirt down when rising from your seat, you#39;re likely distracting yourself and others. Test this in the dressing room before you buy. Sit down, wiggle, and stand up three times. If the skirt requires coaching to stay in place, try a different one. 和鞭炮还有某些儿童玩具一样,很多迷你裙的标签上都应该有警示说明。上班族:小心这是容不得任何出错余地的裙子。如果你的裙子在你从座位上起身时必须得往下拉一下,那就可能会让自己和同事分心。买之前在试衣间测试一下。坐下、扭动、站起来,反复三次。如果裙子需要“管教”才能“保持规矩”,那就换其他款式。Leggings under a mini can look fresh while solving myriad ills from the over-reveal to unsightly skin. But they lend a casual attitude that may clash with formal offices or occasions. 迷你裙配打底裤看起来会比较清爽,同时还能解决暴露过多和皮肤难看等问题,但打底裤会营造出随意的感觉,可能会和比较正式的办公室等场合不相配。Pairing a sexy mini with platform high heels can easily veer into lady-of-the-evening territory. Chunky heels on boots or low pumps, on the other hand, can lend a mod look to the outfit. So can kitten heels. Contrary to myth, high heels don#39;t actually make minis shorter, but they do place more focus on the legs and enhance the rear end. 性感迷你裙搭配厚底高跟鞋会很容易给人低俗的感觉。粗跟靴子或浅口皮鞋则会给整个装扮带来60年代登风格的感觉,中跟鞋也一样。和普遍看法不同,高跟鞋其实并不会让迷你裙显得更短,但是的确会把更多的关注点放在腿上,并且让臀部更突出。Minis have come and gone and come again since the 1960s. Designers love to switch directions in their pursuit of something new. Mr. Valli notes that this is his second round with minis since launching his label nine years ago. #39;The great thing about fashion,#39; he says, #39;is that season after season you can express one thing and the next collection its contrary.#39; 从1960年代开始,迷你裙来了又走,走了又来。设计师在追求新东西时喜欢更换方向。瓦利表示这是他九年前推出自己的品牌以来第二次设计迷你裙。他说:“时装行业的好处是,不同的时装季可以表达完全不同的东西。”When high-fashion hemlines dropped to the shin several years ago, some people attributed the shift to conservative feelings engendered by the financial crash and ensuing recession. Others pointed the finger at Janie Bryant, costume designer of the television show #39;Mad Men,#39; which capitalized on a growing national obsession with midcentury modern style. 几年前高档裙装长度长至小腿时,有人把这种转变归因于金融危机及随之而来的衰退带来的保守情绪。还有人认为是詹妮·布赖恩特(Janie Bryant)的问题。她是电视剧集《广告狂人》(Mad Men)的装设计师,这部剧抓住了人们对上世纪中叶现代风格日益迷恋的情愫。Whatever the cause, by the time designer Raf Simons made the fashion world swoon with a #39;50s Dior-esque collection for Jil Sander of wasp-waist, shin-length confections in February 2012, dresses required extra yardage. 无论是何种原因,当设计师拉夫·西蒙斯在2012年2月让时尚界对其为吉尔·桑达(Jil Sander)设计的蜂腰、长及小腿肚的50年代迪奥风格精美时装系列而赞叹不已时,最受欢迎的还是长裙。 The pendulum began to swing the other way about a year ago when Mr.Slimane put miniskirts and short baby doll dresses on Saint Laurent#39;s runway in March 2013. They looked so short that critics shrugged and predicted they would never sell. A few months later, the dresses could be seen disappearing into the dressing rooms at the trend-forward boutique Maxfield in Los Angeles. 大约一年前,斯理曼在2013年3月的 罗兰时装秀上展出迷你裙和洋娃娃短裙时,天平开始向另一边倾斜。这些裙子太短了,于是人士不以为然,预测这些裙子不会畅销。几个月后,在洛杉矶潮流先锋精品店Maxfield,它们成了顾客们最爱试穿的衣。 /201405/295014

Chocolate and Orange Scones巧克力橙皮司康饼Ingredients材料700g/1lb 9oz self-raising flour 150g/5?oz butter 150g/5?oz caster sugar 2 large oranges, finely grated zest of both and juice of one orange 150g/5?oz chocolate drops 200ml/7fl oz whole milk, plus extra for brushing700克自发面粉 150克黄油 150克糖粉 2个大橙子:把两个橙皮都磨碎备用,其中一个榨汁备用 150克巧克力碎粒 200毫升全脂牛奶,再多备一些用以刷在表层Preparation method制作步骤1. Preheat the oven to 210C/400F/Gas 6. Lightly butter two baking trays1. 烤箱预热到210℃。同时在两个烤盘上抹一层薄薄的黄油;2. Sift the flour into a bowl. Rub in the butter using your hands until the mixture resembles fine bcrumbs. Stir in the sugar, chocolate drops and orange zest.2. 将面粉筛入到一个大碗里。用手把黄油和面粉一起揉搓,直到面粉和黄油结块成细小的颗粒状。然后拌入糖粉、巧克力粒和橙皮碎末;3. In a measuring jug, mix the milk with the juice of one orange. Add to the flour mixture gradually until the dough just comes together. You may not need all the liquid. Be careful not to overwork the scone dough.3. 把牛奶和橙汁混合、慢慢加入到面粉的混合物里。将面粉揉成面团。要注意可能你不需要所有的牛奶和橙汁。同时面团也不要揉地太久。4. Roll out the dough to approximately 2cm/1in thickness and cut out scones using a 5-6cm/2-2?in cutter.4. 把面团擀成2厘米厚的饼皮,再切分成5-6厘米大小的圆形(或任何模具的形状);5. Transfer the scones to the buttered baking trays, brush the tops with milk and bake in the centre of the oven for 10-12 minutes, or until risen and golden-brown.5. 把成型的司康饼放入抹过黄油的烤盘中,在每个司康饼上刷上一层牛奶。烤10-12分钟,直到司康饼开始膨胀、并呈金黄色;6. Remove from the oven and cool on wire rack. Serve with clotted cream and satsumas.6. 烤好之后放在烤架上放凉。吃的时候可以和奶油、小蜜橘搭配。 /201401/272149

US researchers suggest smells could be used to calm fears - while people sleep.美国研究人员发现,在睡眠过程中,我们可以借助气味来缓解恐惧不安的心情。People were trained to associate two images, linked to smells, with fear.研究人员让实验者将两种和气味有关的影像与恐惧联系在一起。During sleep they were exposed to one of those smells - and when they woke they were less frightened of the image linked to that smell.在睡眠过程中,研究人员让实验者嗅到一种令人恐怖的气味,而当他们睡醒的时候,对于那种气味的恐惧感则会下降。A UK expert praised the study and said it could help treat phobias and perhaps even post-traumatic stress disorders.一位英国专家对此发现赞赏有加,并声称这将有助于帮助治疗恐惧,以及事故后期残留的精神混乱等病情。People with phobias are aly commonly treated with ;gradual exposure; therapy while they are awake, where they are exposed to the thing they are frightened of in incremental degrees.当前,恐慌症患者在意识清醒的状态下接受“逐步暴露”治疗,即逐步接受那些让他们感到恐慌的事物。This study suggests that the theory could be extended to therapy while they are in slow-wave, or deep, sleep.此项研究可能帮助患者实现在短波、或深度睡眠间的治疗。This is the deepest period of sleep, where memories, particularly those linked to emotions, are thought to be processed.在深度睡眠的过程中,大脑对记忆,特别是那些影响人的情绪的记忆,进行加工。The researchers showed 15 healthy people pictures of two different faces. At the same time they were given a mild electric shock. They were also exposed to a specific smell, such as lemon, mint, new trainers, clove or wood.研究人员向15名健康的人一边展示不同的画面,一边释放例如柠檬、薄荷、新跑鞋和丁香等味儿,同时对他们进行轻微的电击。Later, when they were awake, they were shown both faces - without the scents or shocks.当这些人醒来后,再向他们展示之前的画面。这一次,没有气味、也不实施电击。They showed less fear when shown the face linked to the scent they had smelt while asleep than when shown the other face.实验表明,与之相关气味的作用下,人们对于图片的恐惧相对减少。与之相对的,不曾闻到气味的人对于图片的恐惧明显要多得多。Their response was measured through the amount of sweat on the skin and fMRI (functional magnetic resonance imaging) brain scans.而人们的这种恐惧反应死通过对体表汗液和大脑皮层的功能感应反映图像对比测得。People were in slow-wave sleep for between five and 40 minutes, and the effect was strongest for those who slept for longest.对于那些睡眠时间在5~40分钟的人来说影响不大。睡眠时间越长,这种反差更明显。Dr Katherina Hauner, of the Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine, Chicago, who led the study, said: ;It#39;s a novel finding. We showed a small but significant decrease in fear.这项研究的负责人,芝加哥西北大学格药品研究分院的凯瑟琳士说:“这是一项崭新的发现,我们发现,人们的恐惧情绪大大降低。”;If it can be extended to pre-existing fear, the bigger picture is that, perhaps, the treatment of phobias can be enhanced during sleep.;“若将此项研究推广,我们很有希望在患者睡眠中对其进行恐慌治疗,”She said phobias would be the most obvious area to pursue, as cues tended to be relatively simple, compared with the more complex post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD).她还说,较之更复杂的病症,恐慌症病情简单,从而很有可能成为最有研究前途的领域。她表示,若想全面了解这项研究的影响还需作进一步的研究。And she said much more research was needed to fully understand the effects this therapy could have.;This was just one day. We really need to see if it can last weeks, months or years.;“当前的结果只是我们做一天的实验得出的。我们还有待考,这一结果在几周,几个月,甚至是几年之后是否依旧正确。”Jennifer Wild, consultant clinical psychologist at the King#39;s College London Institute of Psychiatry, said: ;The sleep study is excellent and has implications for treating phobias and stress disorders, such as post-traumatic stress, where there are a whole range of cues.伦敦理工大学的医疗顾问生理学家波奇璀说:“这一睡眠研究很不错,它将推动如事故后遗症造成的恐慌和精神压力的治疗,有很大的研究空间。”;Many people who have survived traumatic events, such as fires or road traffic accidents, have a physiological fear response to triggers of their memories.“对于很多在诸如火灾、道路交通事故等不幸中幸存下来的人来说,记忆带给他们不尽的后续伤痛。;Triggers often include smells, such as smoke, petrol, antiseptic smells and alcohol. Infusing these smells during periods of slow-wave sleep could help to extinguish the fear response.;“而导致这些痛苦回忆的诱因有很多,包括浓烟、汽车燃油。防腐剂和酒精的气味等。如若在他们熟睡之间释放这类气体,将缓解他们的恐慌。”Dr Wild added that the theory could perhaps be extended by exposing people to subtle sounds linked to phobias or traumatic memories during their sleep.沃尔德士还指出,我们还可以就此延伸,研究在深度睡眠过程中,与记忆相关的别的因素,如气体,是否对缓解人们的恐慌心理是否同样奏效呢? /201401/273319

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